If you cast your mind back to my previous article about Fiberfix, you will know that I bought two of these spokes to add to my touring toolbox.
Thinking about technical difficulties one can have on the open road, I realised that there is a difference to actually having a tool/spare and knowing how to use said tool/spare. I would rather learn and practice how to use a fiberfix in the comfort of my garage than on the side of the road at night in the rain and wind.
Once you start to use one on a wheel you can get an appreciation of how ingenious they are. I wrongly assumed that you fit the metal parts to the rim and then cinch down on the kevlar string until it’s tight and the wheel is sort of trued. When in real life you fit the metal parts and use only 3-4 turns of the nipple, then pull the kevlar string tight, wind it through the cam system and then adjust the nipple spoke until good tension is had.
Anyhow enough of my jabbering, here are some youtube videos (actually mine this time). Only 10 seconds long each one.
Ah shoot, I’ve broken a spoke in the middle of no where, what to do?
No touring cyclist should be without a couple of these little beauties. No need to remove the wheel or cassette and this will get you back into town. This system comes with good instructions and can even cope if you can’t remove the spoke. Weighs almost nothing. The flat metal tool type looking thingy is actually a spoke wrench.
Easy To Use
String up the FiberFix Spoke using the simple instructions included. Then turn the device with a spoke wrench to the desired tightness. Tie off the excess cord and continue your ride.
FiberFix Spoke is made of a strong Kevlar cord with an extremely durable cam slide mechanism. Unique design works on the freewheel side of the rear wheel without freewheel removal. FiberFix Spoke has been torture tested over thousands of miles.
With FiberFix Spoke you can true a bent rim caused by a broken spoke. There’s no need to carry a freewheel remover or risk opening your brakes to make it home. They’re perfect for long-distance rides and back-country adventures.
What To Do If You Break a Spoke
Remove the broken spoke. If you cannot remove the broken spoke, see the related section below these instructions.
Thread FiberFix Spoke a few turns into the spoke nipple. Not too far, 3 or 4 turns only.
An extra spoke nipple is provided, if it is necessary.
Loop the Kevlar cord in a nice even line down to the old spoke hole in the hub flange, then back up to the cam near the spoke nipple.
Thread the Kevlar cord through the cam as shown in the illustration.
Give it a few quick tugs to cinch it down firmly.
Whilst you are perusing this article, check out BikeHermit1 youtube video on the Fiberfix spokes.
Built my 1st and 2nd wheel this week, primed myself by watching a few youtube videos, which when you don’t have the bits in front of you, you never notice errors or omissions in the videos until you are trying to do it step by step with the video.
Anyhow my wheels now consist of:
Mavic A119 700c 36H rims front and rear from Chain Reaction as well as a couple of Tioga tubes.
Shimano DH-3N72A dynamo (36h) hub for the front wheel came from Wiggle as did the
Schwalbe Marathon Green guard tyres 700 x 35 which for the tour I think I will probably buy some folding Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tyres in 40 mm, which weigh 300g less.
Spokes are DT Swiss Alpine III which I got at Rose Bikes.
Shimano 105 5700 rear hub 36H mated with a CS-HG50-8 speed cassette, these are also Wiggle purchases.
Yes I bought all my items from overseas otherwise I would still be saving up to purchase them locally.
I will buy some more nipples as I seem to have damaged a few of them with my cheapo spoke tool, but the wheels seem to have trued up ok today, although there is a little hop in height but no lateral runout.
Every consumable item on the bike will be close to new before I turn my first wheel. Although it will be tested prior to touring.
Cables: As with most trips, not everything goes according to plan, there is always some element of your journey that turns to custard. And with this in mind, it’s time to start thinking about some spare parts, that no doubt if I don’t buy them then I will need them somewhere along the Nullarbor.
I have bought off eBay some spare cables 2 x brakes and 2 x gear cables, much cheaper to buy off eBay than the LBS. The current set of cables on my bike were purchased off eBay and although much cheaper they are doing the job I expect, doesn’t seem to be much stretching as I haven’t adjusted the brakes or gears much. They seem to slide ok inside the outers. So I don’t know what the more expensive LBS cables do that these ones won’t.
Chain Links: I bought five of these off eBay, one now resides in my toolbag under the saddle.
Spokes: As mentioned in an earlier post, I’m building my own set of wheels, the spokes arrived in the middle of the week and after viewing a few youtube videos on lacing 36h wheels, I have finished the lacing part on both wheels. I bought my spokes from Rose Bikes ( a German website with an English domain name) they were pretty good to deal with, and their prices for the DT Swiss spokes was good and that’s before the VAT refund. I now have two spare spokes for each side of each wheel, plus I have two fiberfix spokes coming just in case.
Chain: I’ll start my tour with a new chain and most likely a new cassette and take along my old chain depending on how much service it has done, or maybe even be another new one. One theme I run across in other blogs is trying to get your items to do two or more jobs if possible, so with some thought on this, I have been thinking about using the spare chain (threaded though some of that clear plastic hose you see at Bunnings to protect the chain and a padlock for my bike security when off the bike and others are about. I plan to use the complete length of the new chain before it is made to measure for the bike so any damaged links can be removed and swap the old chain over to security job.